Brute Analysis
I’ve done a minor analysis of the Brute from AEV. I’d appreciate if you could also take a look and if you would like to comment on anything please feel free. All comments, negative or positive appreciated.
Here is a good picture of the bed:
Looks to have “non-standard” wheel boxes. Fabbed? “vestigal” wheel boxes inset of big wheel boxes. Purpose? CJ tail gate and latches? Top of box is not top of standard box – built upon.
donor sheeltmetal? Fabbed. Hooks for cargo straps look “odd”. not the normal orientation or style seem on Japanese mini-trucks. Or ‘Merkan stuff. Odd the way the bed liner doesn’t go into the corners. WTF? Rear bumper is way too light duty. Needs reciever hitch. Needs hummer tail lights. Don’t like location of fuel filler – would prefer in cab so more
flexibility of bed optionsthinking pop tent camper bed, work flat bed, etc. Kinda like the under bed spare storage.
Could also add CJ standard swing out carrier (beefed for 35″-36″ tires or course) Roof looks to be custom molded. stiffening ridges molded in non-liftgate CHMSL Needs a “show bar” in the bed. :)
Just a quick pic to show scale relative to a LR 110 (or whatever that is).
“Ghey” ARB bumper. They just don’t work on a TJ. I have something like this in mind: But with fenders (flat fender bobbed) of course. This is going to be a road truck for me, mild-moderate wheeling only. Did stiffening ribs on roof go away? Bad angle/lighting?
Just a nice pic to share:
What I like about this idea is that it is very reminiscent of an
old Dodge M-37 or a Willys pickup without all the issues of adapting an old vehicle to modern usage.
Very Willys looking in this photo:
Looks good in silver Seems really tall. Maybe wheel offsets and axle change would work? A cab and Chassis GM Corporate 14 bolt is 63″ wide…and cheap. That tail gate is not actually a CJ stamping. Embossed portion at top of number plate is non-CJ. Custom? Whatever. Box is flush with side of cab. Needs wider flares to cover tires properly.
Bushwackers in the rear might look good? With my axles I’ll need about an extra 4-5″ of coverage. Scout axles (60″) on a CJ tub – not sure of wheel offset (probably 3.5″ BS)
Here is a good sideview:
Wheelbase is fairly short
Contemporary styling put rear axle at front of box proprtionally Worth adding some wheelbase to make box longer? Damn poseur snorkels. Like the handles on the side of the cab for getting in.
Fiberglass needs re-inforcement? pocket/flapped handles may be nicer touch, foot hold in bottom of cab also
rust magnet TJ flares are “Ghey” Considerable rear overhang (not that I care personally) Cab could be longer? Ext cab kinda thing? Look ok? Fire up photoshop…
probably would need longer bed to stay proportional start looking too long and narrow? Prefer driver’s side fuel filler (like everything else I own – Subes exempted)
Just a nice image in situ:
Need black steel wheels. :)
Close up picture of bed/tailgate.
Latches? See how set up above. corners are constructed completely different from CJ/TJ tubs
panel seams in different place tailgate appears wider than CJ/YJ.
note how tail light is mounted so close to corner where radius starts CJ/YJ/TJ is more inboard
Another good sideview.
This one is set up with long arm suspension. Rear frame extension appears to be mostly straight out from bends over rear axle.
Coincides with location required to support floor of normal bed? Kinda looks too short in this image. Or is it just me? Would painting the roof, embossed portion of door and bed edge all in black look good? Too much contrast? Somehow locating a CB antenna between the bed and cab at frame level might look good? Ground plane?
Another good shot of the bed:
Latches inside? Square post at corners good for stiffening structure
Great image:
No comment (really?!)
Another side view:
No spare this time. Fuel tank?
Minor flex:
No twist of frame between bed and cab?
solid mounted? (ugh) Should be some movement – even if suspension is not maxed.
Good shot of frame shape:
Looks to be extension of standard frame shape I like the general “up sweep” of the rockers behind the rear wheel.
Ok, that’s the Brute. Lets compare to what these trucks remind me of.
Just a few Dodge M-37 pics.
Note basic fabricated bed. That is an option also. Soft top
Definately need one of those Or a Bikini top at least if fabbing proves too difficult Diggin’ the swing out windshield
also available for CJ/YJ/TJ frames
Primitive interior.
I’m toying with doing a CJ dash.
KISS principle, and I like the look. I don’t have all the odds-n-ends for the YJ dash. will that work with a YJ grille/hood? Do these tires make my ass look fat?
Side view:
I like the tool stowage on the tailgate:
Also like the box in general
Kinda like this soft top config. Might be a way to do with a Brute style machine. Add a rear bench to the box to take the whole family wheeling?
Dig it!
M-37 has a more traditional box design RE wheel wells:
Hmmm… Swampers…
Just a cool pic:
Interesting box on this weapons carrier:
Might be nice to have a box like this to fall back on when real work needs to get done.
4′ x 8′, bolt in fifth wheel hitch for small car carrier. Looks like a Hummer kit truck in the background.
In the original version of this document I forgot to include images a real Jeep, the CJ10. There were to versions of this platform. The CJ10a was used as an airplane tug at airports. The “regular” CJ10 was a pick-up style truck only available in foreign markets. They seemed quite popular in Australia (so what else is new?).
Here’s some pictures:
Note the fabricated bed very similar in design and construction to a SJ-413K bed. At least the Austrailian SJ-413K got a bed like this. The North American version of the 413K got a bed very similar to a Unimog in style and construction. I like the idea of having the bed open on three sides like a Unimog/SJ-413K.
This image was taken from a Jeep Australia brochure. Notice the bed – very ugly and oversized in my opinion. The length of the bed looks to be seven to eight feet long.
Here are a few images of what appears to be a mildly build CJ10 I’d guess the tan colored one is running 33 inch tires.
The front clip on these things is quite ugly. Note the location of the tail lights. Almost looks like the same light housings as used in a C101 (Willys Jeepster Commando).
Here are some pictures of the CJ10a. They appear on E-Bay fairly regularly. My original thought was to get the steel roof and doors off one but after looking at the Brute I like the idea of a custom roof made from a CJ/YJ fiberglass hardtop. There would be more room in the cab to adjust the seats because the cab tub ends up being too short with the CJ10a tub. Note the shape of the doors compared to a normal Jeep SWB door. They do not interchange.
These airplane tugs came with the stock transfer case locked in 4 low. They weren’t highway vehicles (obviously). these are also popular starting vehicles for some of the hard core rock crawling crowd (competition). Wheelbase is way short.
BORED YET?!?
Ok, I’ll finish off with some Willys pics since they seem to be very
similar in look as well.
A couple of fucked over Willys (the red primer one has Mog axles going under it).
Very similar, eh? This truck is stock or very close to it.
Same here:
Some specficiations on the AEB Brute (cut-n-paste, some repetitive):
Started as : 2003 Rubicon
Axles : Dana 44
Engine : Stock 4.0L with ARB Snorkel
Lights : ARB 900 HID
Materials : Sheetmetal Bed with AEV fiber glass hardtop
Bed : Our custom bed is 6″ long, overall width 59″ (42″ between wheelhouses)
Departure Angle: Better then a stock rubicon (With the 35″ Goodyear under the bed)
Comfort : Seats can move back all the way and then recline two notches
Rocker Guards: Custom Protection based on our TJ Rocker Guards (the bed is separated from the cabin)
Suspension/Lift: Our tuned 4.5″ in the front, and the Off Road Only AiRock in the rear
The Brute sits on a 117-inch wheelbase and is 39 inches longer than a Wrangler. The bed, tailgate, and hardtop are completely unique and custom-built, while the frame was stretched 24 inches in the middle and 15 inches in the rear. It features a 6-foot-long bed and has a spot for a 35-inch spare tire underneath, and its fuel tank is a way-trick, L-shaped, mid-ship 20-gallon unit. The third brake light is the standard TJ unit moved to the hardtop, and an ARB bumper houses a Warn 9500ti with IPF HID lights. It has been lifted 4 1/2 inches, and the rear is suspended with an airbag system from Off-Road Only.
NOTE: 24″ wheelbase stretch, 15″ overhang stretch.
Brute Specs:
Axles : Front and rear Dana 44s with Tru-Loc differentials
Transfer case : NVG 241OR with 4:1 low range
Accessories : ARB Bullbar and snorkel, and IPF 900 HID lights
Winch : Warn 9500ti
Rear air suspension: Off-Road Only
Flame Red Paint : House of Kolor
Tires : 315-75R16 Goodyear MT/R (35s)
MY TARGET SPECS:
This is KISS to get it built initially.
4.0 w/ RENIX EFI AW4 4 speed auto NV242 AWD T-Case (2.72:1 low range) HP Dana 44 front axle, High steer, 4.88:1 gears, ARB Dana 44 rear, 4.88:1, full float converted, Detroit E-locker (vs ARB for open LSD?) 35″ tires Cab very similar to above.
keep YJ tailgate and lift gate in roof more flexible for bed toys/configs Attempt to build box using CJ tub and gate
Need another rusty YJ/CJ tub for the front half Use CJ roll bar to build “bed show bar”.
Just because I like the look. steel mesh under main hoop to create “headache rack”.
Questions:
Wheelbase? Ext cab? Rear wheel location? Similar? Longer bed? Or? Rear Dana 60? Color? LOL! 5.12 gears?
Forward thinking:
Use 258 in CJ to build 4.7 liter stroker? Drop in Chev SB from current PU when PU body is finally toast? NV242 may not live up to that engine. Make bed easily removable and modify one of the Tent trailers to drop on. Make “work box” as discussed throughout above.